Trip Report: Winter Backpacking With Matthewski

I can guess what some of you might be thinking.  “Jester, on trail in the winter?  Isn’t he a fair-weather hiker?”

And if that’s what you’re thinking, you’re absolutely right.  If I ever had an interest in hiking in cold, wet weather (note: I didn’t), I lost that interest the year I hiked the 1700 miles of California on the PCT and encountered exactly three days of precipitation.

But when my friend Matthewski asked me to join him on a section of the AT in Pennsylvania in December, I jumped at the chance.  Because Matty often brings steak when he hikes.  And he always brings bacon.  So on the evening of December 19th we met in Duncannon, Pennsylvania, and set up a shuttle for the next day to the start of what would be a three day hike from the liquor store in Duncannon to the Quick-Mart (also in Duncannon).

At this point I feel like I should halt the narrative and caution the reader regarding the challenges of winter backpacking.  Hiking in the winter is not for the unprepared or the inexperienced, and a hike from the liquor store to the Quick-Mart can be fraught with danger.  Mistakes that one can make without consequence in the standard “hiking season” can be potentially life-threatening in cold conditions with slippery sidewalks, and everything is more difficult in the winter, including, as we were to find out, route finding.

But back to the Trip Report:

Day 1

Because Our shuttle driver, Trail Angel Mary, had Avon deliveries to make in the AM, we got a later start than originally planned, hitting the trail under cloudy skies around 10:30.

Trail Angel Mary dropping us off.

We made it all the way across the parking lot in good time, taking our first break by the artillery piece in front of the American Legion.

Our first break, after hiking the parking lot.

It was shortly thereafter that we ran into our first problem of the trip.  Because the double blaze that indicated a change in direction was located across the street, we completely missed the turn.  Hours of off-trail frustration later (briefly wandering onto Hwy 11/15, turning back, making another wrong turn, ending up in the Mutzabaugh Market’s frozen food aisle), we backtracked and figured out where the trail actually went -- past the BBQ sign and under the overpass.

The double blaze we missed, from head-on and from our POV.

But the whole thing ended up being a blessing in disguise.  Our original intention had been to crank out more tenths of a mile on Day 1, but had we done so we wouldn’t have ended up discovering a sweet campsite across from the Perry County Beer Distributor, where we bedded down after enjoying the previously mentioned steak and bacon, along with a case of Lord Chesterfield Ale.

Sweet Campsite, Night 1.

Day 2

Resisting the urge to go off trail.

Our second day on trail saw us getting a late start, mainly due to the previously mentioned case of Lord Chesterfield Ale.  We nonetheless had an amazing day, with great views of the Sonny Daze Laundromat and the Curves Fitness Club as we crossed to the opposite side of the trail to hike past Zeiderelli’s Pizza.

Day 2: Exhaustion sets in.

Exhausted and cold, we took our lunch break by the Christmas Tree in the park.  To be perfectly honest, at this point the low temps were really getting to me, and I gave some thought to quitting.  But our maps showed too narrow a trail corridor to come up with an impromptu bail-out plan, so there was nothing for it but to press on.

Breaking out the maps.

The next section was a bit confusing, with signs alternately describing it as “Maket Street” and “Maret Street,” but we were fine until we reached a baffling trail intersection and accidentally took a side trail that led to The Doyle Hotel.

The trail is poorly signed through this area.

Taking the detour in stride, we had a few beers in the bar, then backtracked to where we had gone wrong and, confident we could make up the mileage the next day, decided to camp right there.  After setting up the tent, we enjoyed a dinner of steak and bacon, along with sixes to go that we picked up while on our side-trail adventure.

Cooking dinner on night 2.

Although it was winter time, we decided to bear bag our food because of a pack of roving teenagers sighted earlier in the day.

Note: Some will debate the merits of sleeping with your food vs. hanging food when there are teenagers around.  I prefer to put my food, and anything that has come into contact with my food -- cookpot, spoon, eating gloves, eating helmet, all of my clothes, sleeping bag, shoes, and my beard (I’m a messy eater) -- into an enormous bag, hung safely PCT-style from the nearest streetlight.

Anyway, aside from the train and a lot of passing cars, it was your typical quiet evening on the trail, and we got a good night’s sleep.

Moments before loading everything into the bearbag.

Day 3

Originally we had planned a short day on Day 3, but it turned out to be slightly longer because of Day 2's navigation errors.  We ended up getting a late start due to the previously mentioned sixes to go, along with the fact that it took us 45 minutes to recover our tent stakes from where they had been pounded into the sidewalk.  We took our time once we got to hiking, enjoying a long walk down Cumberland Street past the Karaoke/DJ place, and at one point Matty swore he could see the Drive-Up ATM behind the bank, but clouds rolled in and I missed it.

It's important to stay calm when lost.

Possibly because of the same clouds we got all the way to the Fire House before we realized that we were lost again.  Breaking out our maps and compasses, we tried to figure out where we had gone wrong and how to get back on trail.  Finally, at one point Matty turned around and realized that the Quick-Mart was right there across the street!  Normally we would have backtracked on trail once again just to be safe, but as the Quick-Mart was clearly visible we decided to go cross-country and not too long after we crossed the street we arrived at our destination for this trip.

Finished!

Looking back on the hike now, I realize that I enjoy winter backpacking, and that given the right equipment, attitude, and partner, it can actually be fun.  I’m definitely looking forward to our next trip (a section of the AT in Pennsylvania) scheduled for a week in February -- from the Quick-Mart in Duncannon to The Cabin Strip Club (also in Duncannon).

Special thanks to:

Harold Frederick, Kelly Dewire, Matthewski, and Trail Angel Mary Parry

Note for the clueless:

You are not actually allowed to camp on the streets of Duncannon.